spot A ese swell

that special spot we love showed three faces today :

1 clean and inconsistent chest high semi-barrels peeling at high tide …. by the time we paddled out, the waves were passing by on the outside bar, avoiding our chosen jetty.  and the one regular girl i’ve seen surf spot A for years showed up to make the person-to-wave frequency ratio about three to one every fifteen minutes.   not happy after seeing a few beauties roll through this same spot fifteen minutes earlier with no soul out.

2 light onshore breaking in the chest+ range at mid-low tide and mid-beach peak.   very fun when they came through – fast runners begging to be chased up and down the face.   some satisfying hacks.

3 low tide and the wind picked up — dredgers coming out of the flatness and breaking waist high in about a foot of water.  stand and wait on the sandbar as the current rushes around you.  step off the ledge into the deep, turn, paddle, stand up, pull into a sand bottom tube …   we moved down the beach and caught 150 yard waist high waves with chop all over them —– named that bumpy wave, on that day, “the rickety railroad.”