from the city

working, writing, a cloudy day with a passing offshore low + hurricane ida remains — i am watching the cameras along the coast and the many waves in their many forms bending into the coves, open beaches and jetties along our J-shaped coast.  the more one surfs, the more one will surf.  and today my account drained some small percentage off my future.   maybe this work will serve to free me in old age, when i will be happy just to paddle out and stand up a few times, and i often wonder why i am not a carpenter in the outer banks, an engineer on the space coast or just living in san diego as an asshole, but an asshole who surfs blacks every other day.  instead i am less an asshole, maybe, surviving in the sea-less city.